Best Carbonara in Rome: 8 Places to Try

Rome · 8 places

A plate of spaghetti alla carbonara with a glass of red wine
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Best Carbonara in Rome: 8 Places to Try

Where to eat the best carbonara in Rome, on one map.

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  • Rome, Italy
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The 8 places

Looking for the best carbonara in Rome? These are 8 places worth the trip, from famous tables like Roscioli and Armando al Pantheon to neighbourhood trattorias in Testaccio and Ostiense.

Real Roman carbonara has no cream. It is pasta, egg, guanciale, Pecorino Romano and black pepper, and the sauce comes from mixing them with the heat of the pasta. Every place on this map is named for its carbonara by at least one Rome food guide, so you can skip the tourist menus.

Best carbonara in the historic centre

Near Campo de' Fiori, go to Roscioli for the most talked about plate in the city, or to Hosteria Grappolo d'Oro for a classic trattoria meal on Piazza della Cancelleria. Near the Pantheon, Armando al Pantheon has been serving carbonara since 1961.

Best carbonara in Trastevere

Da Enzo is the name everyone gives you in Trastevere. It sits on Via dei Vascellari, in the quieter part of the neighbourhood near Tiber Island, and there is usually a queue outside.

Best carbonara in Testaccio and Ostiense

Testaccio is one of Rome's great food neighbourhoods, and Felice a Testaccio makes a by-the-book version there. A little further south, near Piramide, Trattoria Pennestri makes its carbonara with rigatoni.

Best carbonara near the Vatican

L'Arcangelo in Prati is the pick on this side of the river. It's a good dinner after a day at the Vatican or Castel Sant'Angelo.

Best carbonara in San Giovanni

SantoPalato is outside the usual tourist area, and it's the one Romans argue about. Chef Sarah Cicolini's carbonara has been voted the city's best more than once.

All 8 places: details & directions

  1. Restaurant · Deli and restaurant

    A family deli turned restaurant near Campo de' Fiori, and the name most guides give first. Order the spaghetti alla carbonara, made with carefully sourced eggs, pecorino and guanciale.

    Tip: It books up fast, so reserve online well ahead.

    Via dei Giubbonari 21, 00186 Roma
    View on Google Maps
  2. Restaurant · Trattoria

    Also known as Da Enzo al 29, this small Trastevere trattoria is one of the best-known carbonara stops in the city. You eat elbow to elbow, and it lives up to the hype.

    Tip: Arrive before it opens to beat the queue.

    Via dei Vascellari 29, 00153 Rome
    View on Google Maps Website
  3. Restaurant · Trattoria

    An old-school, wood-panelled trattoria next to the Pantheon that has been making carbonara since 1961. This is the classic choice if you want a traditional plate in the historic centre.

    Tip: Reserve as far in advance as you can.

    Salita de' Crescenzi, 31, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
    View on Google Maps Website
  4. Restaurant · Trattoria

    A Testaccio institution with a modern, warm dining room. Its carbonara sticks to the classic recipe, with fresh eggs, sharp pecorino and fresh black pepper.

    Tip: Combine it with a walk around Testaccio, one of Rome's best food neighbourhoods.

    Via Mastro Giorgio, 29, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
    View on Google Maps Website
  5. Restaurant · Trattoria

    A small neighbourhood trattoria near Piramide, away from the tourist crowds. Chef Tommaso Pennestri makes his carbonara with al dente rigatoni and thick-cut guanciale.

    Tip: The room is small, so book well ahead.

    Via Giovanni da Empoli, 5, 00154 Roma RM, Italy
    View on Google Maps Website
  6. Restaurant · Trattoria

    Chef Arcangelo Dandini's restaurant in Prati is the best carbonara stop near the Vatican on this map. His version uses rigatoni and is lighter than most, and it costs a little more.

    Tip: Good for dinner after a day at the Vatican.

    Via Giuseppe Gioachino Belli, 59, 00193 Roma RM, Italy
    View on Google Maps Website
  7. Restaurant · Trattoria

    Chef Sarah Cicolini's modern trattoria in San Giovanni, voted Rome's best carbonara more than once. Expect a creamy, salty plate that puts the quality of each ingredient first.

    Tip: It's outside the historic centre, so plan it as a dinner trip.

    Via Gallia, 28, 00183 Roma RM, Italy
    View on Google Maps Website
  8. Restaurant · Trattoria

    A Roman trattoria on Piazza della Cancelleria, between Campo de' Fiori and Piazza Navona. Choose it for a classic carbonara right in the centre when Roscioli is full.

    Tip: A good backup near Campo de' Fiori.

    Piazza della Cancelleria 80, 00186 Rome
    View on Google Maps Website

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Recommended hotels

Where to stay in Rome

Hotel de Russie

Piazza del Popolo

€€€€

Best for: Garden and spa

Rocco Forte hotel between Piazza del Popolo and the Spanish Steps, with a large terraced garden that climbs toward the Pincio.

Hotel Eden

Near Villa Borghese

€€€€

Best for: Rooftop views

Dorchester Collection hotel above the Spanish Steps with a rooftop restaurant and one of the best terrace views over Rome.

Hotel Raphaël

Piazza Navona

€€€€

Best for: Historic centre

Ivy-covered hotel one street from Piazza Navona, with a rooftop terrace looking over the domes of the historic centre.

Hotel Artemide

Via Nazionale

€€€

Best for: Central base

Elegant, central hotel with a rooftop restaurant and easy walks to the Pantheon and Trevi.

Hotel Smeraldo

Campo de' Fiori

€€

Best for: Value

Simple, well-placed hotel on a quiet lane in the historic centre, right by Roscioli, at a lower price than most hotels this central.

See all 10 best hotels in Rome on one map

Recommended activities

Things to do in Rome

3.5 hours

Testaccio: Home Cooking Cacio e Pepe, Amatriciana, Carbonara

A small-group class in a Testaccio home. Make fresh pasta and three Roman sauces, including carbonara, then eat what you cooked with local wine.

Book

3 hours

Rome: 3 Spritz Cocktails & Fresh Pasta Cooking Class

Make fresh pasta and learn classic carbonara and cacio e pepe, with three spritz cocktails along the way.

Book

3.5 hours

Rome Gourmet Food Tour: An Exclusive Full Meal

A guided food tour with tastings of cheeses, cured meats, supplì, Roman pizza, carbonara and gelato.

Book

3 hours

Rome: Food and Wine Tour, Trastevere and Jewish Ghetto

A guided food tour of Trastevere and the Jewish Ghetto, with Roman dishes from carbonara to supplì.

Book

Before you go

Good to know

Book ahead
Roscioli, Armando al Pantheon and Trattoria Pennestri are small and fill up early, so reserve as far in advance as you can.
Check the ingredients
A good Roman carbonara uses guanciale and Pecorino Romano, not bacon and cream. If the menu photo looks white and soupy, keep walking.
Expect it to be rich
Carbonara is a heavy plate. If you want to try other Roman classics, share it as a first course.

Questions & answers

What travellers ask

Where is the best carbonara in Rome?

Roscioli near Campo de' Fiori and Da Enzo in Trastevere are the two names food guides mention most. Armando al Pantheon is the classic choice in the historic centre, and SantoPalato has been voted the city's best more than once.

Where can I eat carbonara in Trastevere?

Go to Da Enzo on Via dei Vascellari. It's the best-known carbonara in Trastevere, so expect a queue.

Where can I eat carbonara near the Pantheon?

Armando al Pantheon is right next to it and has been open since 1961. Book as far ahead as you can.

Where can I eat carbonara near the Vatican?

L'Arcangelo in Prati is the closest place on this map to the Vatican.

Does real Roman carbonara have cream?

No. Traditional carbonara is made with pasta, egg, guanciale, Pecorino Romano and black pepper. The creamy texture comes from the egg and cheese, not from cream.

Do I need a reservation for carbonara in Rome?

For Roscioli, Armando al Pantheon and Trattoria Pennestri, yes. Da Enzo is known for its queue, so arrive early.

Amit Kerenspotz.guide

This guide was written by Amit Keren

spotz.guide is a collection of travel maps and step-by-step routes, made to be opened on your phone and followed on the ground. Every guide is put together and checked by founder and editor Amit Keren.

Spots come from time on the ground and strong recommendations, and each one is checked before it goes on the map.

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